Apples Are From Kazakhstan

18 Nov 07, Sunday, Almaty, Kazakhstan
Day 54. Major events of the day: American Burgers, Orthodox Church, and up to Kok Tobe

Morning Weather Report:
Almaty weather: 41, feels like 38, with a projected high of 46. Another crystal clear morning which turned into a foggy/hazy afternoon
Meanwhile back in Memphis: Overnight low of 50, but heading back to 68. The Memphis low was warmer than Almaty’s high!

It’s a long entry, ‘cause we had a adventurous, fun, and busy day…

Yesterday evening after dinner, we headed back out to do a little more shopping. I had seen a computer store across the street from the Ramstore and figured I could pick up some keyboard stickers so we could set the computer up so the kids can type to their friends. In addition to a set of stickers (~$3.50), I picked up a keyboard for about $8. Now that’s a deal! (Another thing I learned recently is that it’s easy to set up the computer for Cyrillic by just going to System Help and typing in “Language.” A few keystrokes later and David was typing a note to Cathe in Cyrillic.)

After picking up the keyboard and stickers, we made another visit to the Ramstore. In addition to milk, we needed new shoelaces for David. He had been leaving them untied and was stepping on the ends, eventually stretching them to the breaking point. We scouted the entire store then found a 12-pack of assorted laces which we were able to make work. While on the wild goose chase, Kate found a Golden Retriever notebook which bears a striking resemblance to Bob, our Golden Retriever. We added two to the shopping cart.

Today’s trekking adventure started at high noon. After a quick lunch, we were on our way out the door. I had an optimistic route in Google Earth, wanting to find a couple churches along the way. Kathy from Louisiana also told me about a place to get a good hamburger (David keeps asking for Gam-boor-gher, but really means any meat and cheese sandwich, which he really likes). We were also hoping that the funicular would be operating and we could go up to the city overlook.

Zig-zaging our way from the apartment, David kept asking “Ice, Papa, ice?” meaning he wanted to know when we were going to the Ramstore while Kate wanted to know when we were going back to the apartment. I responded “Maybe” to ice skating, but “Yes” to ice cream. Neither was thrilled with my plan for more walking today and I had a near revolt on my hands! If either had known their way back, I’m sure at least one would have disappeared. We passed by an open trench where some work on the steam pipes was obviously in some stage, and noticed a cat comfortable curled up (there was still ice on the puddles when we left the apartment). Not too long after that, we passed a Big Apple and had to stop for a picture.

We walked by a movie theater which is showing some high-class American movies which accurately depict our culture. In addition to the movie billboards was another camel. I’m beginning to think that Almaty must have done something like Chicago and other major cities by setting up displays of fiberglass statues following particular themes (Chicago’s was Mickey Mouse) decorated by various well known, and lesser known, artists.











This one was interesting because it was painted with a pair of painted-on jeans shorts on which had a Beatles ticket sticking out of the back pocket. It was odd enough to take a picture of (besides, digital “film” doesn’t cost anything). I would learn more of its significance later (the Robbins book also mentioned the Beatles and how youngsters in the 60s and 70s would listen to their music although it was officially banned by the government at that time as being “subversive”).

Had it not been for Kate’s request to find a restroom, we would have missed the American Bar & Grill, which Kathy from LA had mentioned (Louisiana, not Los Angeles). Turns out that the restaurant is in the upstairs area over the movie theater lobby. You would have never guessed it from the main street side. The kids picked from the kiddie menu while I has the “Classic Hamburger.” Kathy was right, it’s just like something from Fudruckers, and the fries were great. The kids liked the décor and I had to admire the Heinz Ketchup.

One goal accomplished, my next sight to see was the Russian Orthodox church in the middle of a park area. I knew we were close when we saw several wedding processions. You have to admit that they really do weddings and receptions with style in Kazakhstan. We saw another Lincoln limo and a Rolls Royce limo and headed into the park. The church is absolutely beautiful. Anyone visiting Almaty should stop by to see it. Inside is just as ornate. As we were enjoying the interior decorations, a priest came into the main area and began a wedding mass. Although we did not find the church we were looking for, we did attend church today! The gift shop also has very reasonable icons available for purchase. We added several to our souvenir collection today.

After Mass, we saw our first Christmas/New Year’s tree of the season. I’m sure they’re popping up everywhere back home since we’re just a few days from Thanksgiving. We can hardly wait to be home! Another of today’s goal’s accomplished!

Up to this point, the kids had been great. Now we were back on the verge of rebellion again, with Kate wanting to know if we were now heading back to the apartment and David alternating between Ramstore (ice skating) and a trip up the mountain. When either asked, “Which way?” I could honestly point in the direction we were traveling because everything was now on the way back to the apartment. Fortunately, the Gondola cars came first, but unfortunately they were not in operation due to the winter schedule. However, the bus was in operation! So, for 500 kzt each we could get a ride to the top (but as we found out later, that’s each way, but more on that later).

The view, despite the foggy haze, was spectacular. Although we could not see much of the city below, the Tien Shin mountains rise to the east and south of the city, giving a rugged, snow-capped view. We’ve now seen them early in the morning when the air is clear. The first thing we did was have our picture taken in front of a big bronze apple. An interesting side note is that tulips and apples are though to have originated in Kazakhstan. Since the “Silk Road” trading route passed through southern Kazakhstan, both items made their way to Europe. Google the topics for some interesting reading.

The kids were still insisting that the wanted to go back down so they could go ice skating, but we made up for that by going on the bob-sled run. It’s like a roller coaster, but you get to control the speed with a brake. The track snakes down around the nearest tower. No loops, but it is a really great ride!

There are also shops at the top, so I picked up a few more souvenirs, including another hat. The kids had fun with the shopping, but that all changed when we discovered the petting zoo. There are several varieties of birds and animals on display. I really enjoyed seeing the falcons while Kate and David enjoyed feeding the deer.

Then I had my second “Beatle Sighting” of the day in the most unlikely of places. Life-sized bronze statues of the Fab Four on top of a mountain in southern Kazakhstan. Who’d a thunk it?

Back to the bus tickets… We waited for the shuttle bus to come and shoved our way onto the first one, presented our tickets, and were told, “You need to be on the other bus.” Oh. So we got off and waited a few more minutes while enjoying a nice sunset. Then the bus came and we were informed that we had purchased one-way tickets. I was thinking it must be something like the Egyptian camel rides and decided against shelling out another 1500 kzt to ride back down. Besides, I had been taking a few things in on the way up and noticed that there was a bus station at the bottom of the hill which had buses passing right in front of our apartment, so I turned down the driver’s offer to sell us tickets on the spot. Advice to other Almaty visitors: Catch either the #95 or #99 bus for 40 tenge, then spend the 200 or 400 tenge for the small bus to take you to the top. A great deal for less than $5…

When I turned down the driver’s offer of tickets, David was miffed. He thought that we would be walking all the way back to the apartment. He and Kate were getting tired, cold, hungry and cranky by this point, but I weathered their storm. Besides, it was literally all downhill fro this point! Instead of the 1500 kzt ride back to the tram terminal which would have been followed by a 20 minute up-hill hike, we ended up with a total of 80 kzt expended which got us within 200 yards of our apartment (40 for me and 20 for each child since they’re half-price). Ok, so I wasn’t such a bad dad after all, and I save a few bucks on top of that.

Just as I was putting the finishing touches on dinner, Oleg called. He wanted to come over to put the finishing touches on our paperwork for the US Consulate interview. Now all we need are the children’s passports and we can go home.