Kazakhstan at Last!

Hello from Petropavlovsk!



No internet connection in our apartment at the moment, so our translator showed us where the Kaztelkom office is. Very reasonable, 200 KZT/hr (~$1.65/hr). Below is text I wrote about our first couple days in Kazakhstan... I also successfully navigated to the Iceberg store and picked up a few things on my own!

Here's a picture of Cathe and Masha, our translator, from our walk in the park. I even made it into the picture (see shadow at bottom?) What a nice day! Below are some catch-up notes from the past couple days...

26 Sep 07, Wednesday, Memphis, TN (entry by Bill, amended by Cathe, 6am 29 Sep 07)
Major event of the day: Departed on Northwest at 7:10pm, en-route to Kazakhstan!

We got off to a hectic start. There was a lot of last second scrambling which led to a little over-packing and an additional charge later on. It was raining as we left the house, a real downpour. Bob was pretty upset. Every time he sees our luggage, he gets worried that it’s time to go to the puppy-sitter’s place. I’m sure he is well taken care of, but don’t think he likes it there. As we drove to the airport, the rain tapered off until all we could see behind us was a black wall of clouds. (For those who have not "met" Bob, he's our golden retriever)

Cathe-insert: Ladies we are not allowed to carry lotions on the airplane. Liquid makeup must be marked in a 3oz bottle. Having less than 3 oz in a container (ie 3oz left in a regular size toothpaste container is not acceptable). OK, now the point here is to get through customs you must have your liquid toiletries, in bottles not bigger than 3oz, and in a visible quart size see through bag. (and you only get ONE bag!)

Once we unloaded the car, Scott headed back to the house. I sure hope the adoption process goes quickly so we can return home before he has to leave on his IA trek to Iraq. We are so thankful that he could house sit for us and take care of Bob. We’ll owe him big time! He did mention liking several shows on TV, so I’ll probably record those for him and periodically send a CD or DVD his way. That really worked out well for our friend Paul when he was in Kuwait.

Check-in went smoothly. Despite all the luggage, the ticket agent didn’t blink an eye. We breezed through security. I was a bit worried what we would have to do since we were carrying so much cash, but there were no questions, thus the issue never arose. Cathe has a minor event, which I wouldn’t even classify as an incident, going through security. All of her liquids, including makeup “stuff,” were not in her 1 one quart bag. Oops! The patience and assistance of the security screener alleviated incident and smoothed feathers. (see Cathe's note above)

Of course, I cannot forget to mention the most major event: We were seated in different sections of the airplane! Since our reservations have different return dates (Cathe coming back after court and me staying to wrap things up and bring back our precious cargo), our travel itineraries were not linked. Since the plane was fully booked, we decided to take our assigned seats then ask adjacent passengers if they wanted to switch. Thankfully, that worked out for us.

It was already dark by the time we actually took off, around 7:30 pm. I was fortunate to have the window seat since I like looking out. We took off to the north and just before we went into the clouds, I was able to look down and locate Bartlett as we flew over. I couldn’t make out our house/street, but it was a nice send-off.

The airplane seats each had their own individual video screens and each person could pick from a series of shows/movies/music on demand. It has been a while since I traveled on a plane with other than audio in-flight entertainment. They sure have come a long way! There were also many kid-friendly shows in the line-up, so we will have something to keep the youngsters busy on their return trip.


27 Sep 07, Amsterdam, Holland (entry by Bill amended by Cathe, 6:30 am 29 Sep 07)
Major event of the day: Layover at the Amsterdam airport

What a short night! We arrived in Amsterdam a little after 11 am local. There is a 7 hour time difference from Memphis, which coupled with our already out of whack internal clocks, left us a bit out of sync. We had heard about the executive lounge where you can buy a day-pass. Unfortunately, it was actually 20 Euros, each, for 3 hours. And access to the showers cost an additional 20 Euros. So we opted for a hotel room instead. For 95 Euros we got a room, with shower, for all day. After showering, we went walking and shopping.

Amsterdam airport is pretty amazing. The shops inside the secure area (where the hotel was too) could put many malls to shame. We did a bit of walking and worked the knots out, but never did move beyond the terminal wing our flight was in. From the map, I surmise that there are two more equally expansive terminal wings.

Cathe bought a few postcards and stamps. We like to mail one back to ourselves each place we visit so it then goes into the scrap book. Ok, more of a collection of things which will eventually go into a scrapbook (currently stored in a basket that Cathe’s Mom gave us a few years ago). I bought a Franklin Electronic Translator. Although it does offer 12 languages and several useful phrases, it only translates one word at a time. Save your money and opt for the more expensive translator from ECTACO. I would have purchased one of those if I had known about it more than a few days before departing.

We had a nice lunch in a cafe around the corner form our hotel, then it was time for a quick power nap. This was the first time Cathe had Pepsi overseas, prior it has always been Coca-Cola. Our lunch was croquettes and fish n’chips. The croquette was not as bready in the middle like a hush puppy, but rather runny. Bill had a hunk of fried fish. Ahhhhhhh! And we even left time for a second shower before heading to the gate for our 6:35 pm flight to Almaty.
Security went well and we boarded another Airbus. The food was good and the attendants were great. By the way, beer and wine were complementary on KLM. The only complaint I have is that the seats are a bit close, so I didn’t have room to really stretch out my legs. I think that’s because they have added a pretty big Business Class section with the seats that really stretch out. When we win the lottery and come back to visit the children’s heritage, we will fly Business Class and get sleeper seats!


28 Sep 07, Petropavlovsk, Kazakhstan (entry posted by Bill, amended by Cathe, 7 am 29 Sep 07)
Major event of the day: Arrival in Kazakhstan

It was an early morning arrival in Almaty. The plane was on time and we touched down at 5:10 am local, 11 hour ahead of Memphis. The information in our instructions said to be sure to get in the right line for international “guests,” not the one for the Kazakhs. We didn’t get the lengthy customs form on the airplane to fill out, so we did a quick scan of the room and found a table in the back with some little 3x5 card-sized forms and filled out a couple of those. Then we headed to the longest line. After waiting a couple minutes there and watching an adjacent line move much more quickly, we noticed that we were in the wrong line and needed to move to the faster line. As if that will ever happen again!

The customs agent examined our passports and visas, scanned a copy, and had us look up at a camera in the back of his cubicle. He didn’t ask any questions that we expected such as, “Do you have anything to declare?” “How much money are you carrying?” “Did you bring any alcohol or tobacco?” Anyone who has been through US Customs knows the routine. We didn’t have to disclose that we did bring a couple bottles of Jack Daniels (because it’s Tennessee whiskey) and a few other recommended gifts for the staff and officials who will assist us through the adoption, nor the amount of cash we brought along to pay all of our in-country expenses. Don’t think that I’m complaining, because I’m not! The last thing we would want would be for someone to document how much cash we brought, letting his buddies know so they could help us spend it.

Collecting our baggage took a while longer than usual. I think our bags must have been the last off the plane. (They probably were since we were most likely some of the earliest check-ins). Finally we had all six bags and headed for the lobby. As promised, Oleg was there to meet us, despite the early hour. Normally, he and a driver would cart us off to a hotel to await the next leg of our journey, but again we were fortunate to have been able to make the connection on a 9:15 flight up to Petropavlovsk (I’ll use Petropavl or just Petro here-after). Oleg gave us our tickets and showed us to a little cafй in the lobby. Then he was off to find another family who came in on the same flight but were having trouble clearing customs (I think they probably got in the longer line).

While relaxing a bit, we met a couple from the UK who had just come from Petro, Gary and Suzanne. They had court the day prior and were heading home to wait for finalization of their adoption. They had a good experience and we hope for the same.

On a whim, I dug out the laptop and turned it on, immediately finding a good WiFi signal. Scott was online and we IMed for a couple minutes. Bob is moping around, already missing us. His world will really be turned upside-down when we get back with kids in tow! We also got a few e-mails off before it was time to head for the local terminal.

What an adventure! As soon as the gate agent saw the number of bags, she immediately had us load up the scale. We were warned about this part. Due to the smaller planes, luggage is much more limited. I received a slip of paper indicating we were 54 kg over the limit. I think that’s high because they had us weigh our carry-on baggage as well. At 279 KZT/kg, that came to 15,066 KZT. At an exchange rate of 118 KZT to the dollar (it’s really 128 to 1, but the money changers get their cut), that came to $127.68. Fortunately I had changed $200 at the exchange desk in the lobby, so I paid the charge in KZT and we made it through that wicket. Despite the overage, I cannot complain since we did bring a lot of gift items and several books along, not to mention the full copy of our application and all the other paperwork copies we will need for the embassy. The cost savings on what we brought along more than makes up for the extra. Also, I think it was a nice youch to bring things from teh US which not be readily available here, or at least would not be things that the locals would buy.

The flight to Petro… what an adventure! We flew on a YAK-40 jet that has seen more than a few years of service. And very utilitarian! When we got out to the ramp, a pile of luggage was sitting next to the plane, including our six. Each person climbing aboard has to carry on their own and stow it in a small space near the restroom. I guess there is no cargo area in the belly of the aircraft. After a brief wait, we finally headed for the runway about 15 minutes late. There was a little break in the haze and we could see some impressive mountains to the south. Definitely worth several pictures when we come back through!

Between being fully loaded and with our extra luggage, the plane climbed slowly until we got up a little more speed. I don’t know the altitude of Almaty, but I’m sure that factored in as well. We were on our own in a very foreign land. Despite the utilitarian aircraft, the flight attendant did make an excellent attempt to provide in-flight service. Just before take-off, she came around with a basket of hard candies, which were found to be a necessity to help the queasiness when hitting an air pocket or drop in altitude. In flight we had a cup of mineral water, then later a juice box and a little individually cherrt cream angel cake wrapped snack cake.

Two hours later, we made our first landing. According to the schedule, we were supposed to land in Kokshetau. I’m no expert in the Cyrillic alphabet, but the sign on the airport definitely was not Kokshetau. Apparently, the pilots needed more fuel since they probably had not topped off in Almaty. Instead, we had landed in Karaganda. Our plane was greeted by a lot of security people (uniformed folks, but not armed), probably all-hands from the terminal, since this was an unplanned stop and there was obviously nothing else going on at the terminal. We must have been the excitement of the day. The passengers were very patient, despite the unplanned stop. No one was getting off or on here, so we just waited. A bit of time had passed and the lady two seats over from Cathe started playing some music from her cell phone to pass away. It was a nice thing to do to pass the time away. Cathe thought we stood out since we didn’t have a cell phone to call someone like everyone else had done. Eventually a fuel truck came over and did its thing. The pilot made two trips to the control tower with clipboard in hand, he was probably getting chewed out for changing his flight plan, and then we were off again after a little over an hour on the ground. As we were taxiing to the end of the runway, I noticed a ramp area with twenty or so old Soviet fighters, still sporting the red star, which didn’t appear to have moved in a very long time.

The next landing was in Kokshetau, per plan. We all had to get off the plane and go into the terminal. Despite being watched over the whole time, we all had to go back through the security screening. Meanwhile, the terminal agent was really laying into the pilot about arriving late. We were probably the last flight of the day, so we were keeping the staff longer than they planned. Cathe found a bathroom which is a squat only space. No seats decided to wait. She was just beginning to change her mind when one of the terminal employees started to gather the passengers. Cathe misunderstood the terminal employee as whisking the ladies together for a bathroom rather getting us through security to re-board the airplane. Cathe would just have to wait. While we were waiting in a little corral area outside the terminal, waiting for permission to re-board, we could hear the terminal agent yelling at the stewardess. Once we got back to the plane, we had to point out our baggage. Although I could be completely wrong, my impression was that the terminal agent expected everyone to unload their baggage, take it to the terminal, then back out to the plane. I suspect that we were juicy prospects since they could again charge us an overage fee or something like that. Either way, we did not part with any additional fees, and the plane was soon back in the air. There were a dozen or so larger bi-planes. Not sure what they’re used for, but they looked in ready-for-flight condition, unlike the old fighters in Karaganda. I’m going to check Google Earth to see if the planes at either location are in any pictures.

By the way, painted in very faded letters on the bottom side of the wing was CCCP. I guess that gives away a little more history of the antique aircraft...

Next stop, Petropavlovsk Metropolitan Airport! Ok, the name is more impressive than the place. Most of the passengers had gotten off in Kokshetau, so seating was much more comfortable. Once we landed in Petro, we reversed the process of loading the plane. Once all six pieces were on the ground, I was gathering them to roll into the terminal when a gentleman with a luggage cart insisted that we load the pieces on his cart so he could push them to the terminal for us. We did, and he did at a speed-walker pace. Even after making a detour to drop a couple of mail bags, he still arrived in the terminal lobby at the same time we did. Waiting for us in the lobby, just like in the plan, were Maria (nickname Masha), our translator, and Sasha, our driver. For a small 400 Tenge fee, “Cartman” delivered our bags right to the car.

Since we landed an hour and a half late, we had to hurry to the apartment to drop off our luggage so we could go over to the Department of Education office for our final ok to visit the orphanage. If we didn’t make it over there before the administrator left, we would have to wait until Monday for an appointment. After dropping off the bags and taking a quick bathroom break, we headed over to the DOE for our interview. All of our paperwork was in order, and the administrator walked by us while we were waiting in the hallway. Masha was going over a few formal hello and goodbye words with us when the administrator’s assistant waived her into the office. She came back all smiles, waiving a couple sheets of paper. Our approval had been signed! All I can guess is that since it was late Friday afternoon and we looked like decent people even if we had been traveling for almost 30 hours, the administrator didn’t need to speak to us.

It was a wonderfully warm afternoon, probably around 75 degrees. Masha said that last week the temperatures were down around freezing. I noticed that some of the trees were starting to turn colors, so this must be their Indian Summer. We also saw several wedding parties. There is another official building next to the DOE building which I think is the central court house, with fountains out front. The fountains weren’t running, but there were two couples having their pictures taken in front of them.

Sasha and Masha got us back to our apartment and for a two hour break before making our first shopping trip to the grocery store, the famous Iceberg. I was impressed. It reminded me of small grocery stores in Germany, so I was completely comfortable. With Masha’s assistance, it was no trouble finding what we needed. I think she was impressed with my understanding of the Russian names of many basic food items. Of course, it helps that many items are just Cyrillic spellings of the item’s western name and English names are popular. We bought bread, butter, jelly, peanut butter (beware: VERY expensive), cereal, milk, orange and apple juice, noodles, sauce, and 2 bottles of Diet Pepsi. Masha really had to twist our arm to buy the “good” dark white and chocolate candy bar. Bill made dinner to celebrate our first official in-country step in the adoption process.


29 Sep 07, Petropavlovsk, Kazakhstan (entry by Bill, 10 am 29 Sep 07)
Major event of the day: A walking tour of Petropavlovsk

I woke up around 4am and couldn’t go back to sleep. After lying in bed until 5:30, I decided to get up since it was obvious no more sleep would come my way. Might as well get thoughts together to document our trek so far over the past three days. No internet connection, so I’m just compiling things in Word and will transfer thoughts to the blog later.

It didn’t get light until 7:30 this morning. I forgot to notice when it got dark last night, but earlier than we’re used to, I’m sure. Today we are going to do a little walking and sight seeing. Masha will be meeting us at 11am. She also promised to show me where the internet cafй is so I can feed my on-line addiction. We should have some nice pictures to go along with the blog entry.

One sad note is that once we leave Petro on Monday, we won’t be coming back since we will go to court in Airtau after our bonding period, then back to Almaty to out-process with the US embassy. With the number of couples who have adopted from Petro, along with all the blogs, there is a tremendous wealth of information about the area, especially the Google Map link in the PVPK group. When we parked by the store last night, I immediately recognized it as the Iceberg. Masha asked, “You have never been here… how do you know this?” Even in the very short time we have been here, she has been great. I will share Google Earth and tell her about blogs and what a great tool they are!

We’re back from our afternoon walk. It was nice to get out and the weather was great: a little cool, but sunny. There is quite a bit to see close by the apartment. We went around the corner so Masha could show us the Kaztelkom building where we can hit the internet for 200 KZT an hour. (If you’re reading this on Sept 29th, then I was successful in getting a connection and making a post). We then wandered through the central park. There are a lot of carnival-type rides, but they’re now closed for the season. It looks like a really fun place to take kids during the summer. We also walked past the Dept of Education. We walked past several shops then bought a couple birthday cards for Cathe’s mom. That meant we also had to go to the Post Office to mail them. An interesting aside, Mom Peay’s birthday is not until July, so Cathe wrote “Do not open until July 31st.” Will she be able to resist temptation?

Anyway, we walked around town for two hours and took a few pictures then headed back to the apartment. Time for sandwiches and journal updates. I plan to be back at the Telkom building when they re-open at 4pm to post updates. At 6 we’ll be heading out to dinner with Masha at a restaurant of her choice.

Tomorrow, we’ll be on our own. Monday we'll head down to Airtau.